Bryan Baird of Baird Brewing

Not to be outdone by Nate, here is an interview with Bryan Baird, the namesake of Baird Brewing in Numazu. Bryan and Chris have both been very kind to us and we thank them for taking the time to answer the questions of a couple of Country Boys.

Bryan, first and most important: What is your favorite type of beer to drink, and what is your favorite style to make?
I love any and all beer that deftly combines balance with complexity. It is highly rewarding to brew beers that do not fit into any established style category and that possess great originality. Beers like our Carpenter's Mikan Ale, Jubilation Ale and Japan Tale Ale would fit this category.
Ok, I am going to ask it. How in the world do you go from an American student to a "legend" in Japanese micro-brewing?

The only answer I have to that is by combining my passion for two things: Japan and Beer.

Obviously you are passionate about Japan and the Japanese. When did you first become passionate about beer?

Ever since I began drinking some in my late teens I always loved beer. When I was young and in college I drank copious amounts of industrial beer (Old Milwaukee was a staple at my college). As I got older and the craft beer movement in the U.S. progressed, I began drinking better beer (Anchor was an early favorite). During graduate school in D.C. in the mid-90s, I fully woke up to the glories of characterful beer.

Good Beer and Country Boys is a site read mostly by English speaking foreigners in Japan. Most of the readers have at least a basic idea of what life in like here. That being said, when you were getting your start--did you ever take any flak for being an 'outsider'? If so, how did you shrug it off?

Being an "outsider" in Japan never much bothered me. In fact, I enjoy Japan more because I am not Japanese and therefore I don't have to deal with the same expectations and social constrictions that many Japanese face.

I've asked this question to others, and I will pose it again to you: You have a microbrewery in view of Mt. Fuji where you brew great beer with your wife. You are living the dream! What is your secret?

Loving what you do and doing it together with the people whom you like and respect the most are the real secrets. Courage in your convictions makes that possible.

We all know about the Japanese fondness for Super Dry and other beers......with less character--to put it politely. Knowing this, how do you create brews that are catered to the Japanese taste?

We cater to no ones taste other than our own. If I were in the U.S. or Europe or on Mars, I would be pursuing beer exactly as I am now. As soon as your finger is up in the air gaging the wind, you are lost.

How much do you think the beer culture (especially 地ビール) has changed in Japan since you started? Have the recent years shown a greater interest in craft beers? What is the future for craft beers in Japan?

There really hasn't been a culture of beer in Japan aside from the 'とりあいずビール' mentality. Japanese ritualistically kick the evening off with a beer but soon graduate to other beverages. Per capita consumption of beer is really quite low in Japan (particularly compared to other industrialized countries). Beer from its beginnings in the Meiji Restoration has always meant industrial lager in Japan. The challenge of craft brewing here is to move peoples' conception of beer beyond that. Japanese, in general, are extremely sophisticated consumers and they have a love and penchant for hand-crafted things. The consumer potential for a fantastic craft beer market exists in Japan; the problem is the relative scarcity of truly outstanding beer. If the level of Japanese craft beer rises so too will the market for it. About that, I have not a doubt.

You have said you are passionate about "characterful beer." Can you explain to us what a "characterful beer" tastes like?

We define a beer with 'character' as being both complex and balanced. A characterful beer thus is flavorful in a multidimensional way without being exhausting to the pallet. Industrial beer is, in my opinion, extremely well-balanced but utterly lacking in complexity. Much craft beer is interesting but un-balanaced and thus exhausting.

If you had to use three words to describe your brewery and beer, they would be....?

Baird Beer: Balance, Character, Complexity. Baird Brewery: Passion, Pride, Perserverence.

If tomorrow you woke up and all of the 'good beer' in the world was gone, and the only two beers left were a Pabst Blue Ribbon and a Miller High Life, and you can only take one (cause I am gonna take the other)...you would choose.....?

Pabst Blue Ribbon -- without a doubt. If you must drink vapid beer, you might as well feel manly about doing it!

Bryan, thanks a ton for your answers--we look forward to seeing you in Numazu soon!

Readers: Check out the Good Beer Map of Japan for the exact location of the Brewery and Fish Market Taproom in Numazu.

I'll be back soon with a review of DenBeer and more beer news!